Nirmala Niketan College Show at Texpressions 2019: Jewels of Indian Textiles and Costumes

Excerpt: The show was based on 3 concepts viz. traditional and contemporary –woven textiles; embroidered textiles, dyed and printed -Textiles and Costumes of India.

Dr.(Mrs.) Ela Dedhia, HOD of Textiles and Fashion Technology, Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science, NAAC Accredited A Grade, Affiliated to University of Mumbai, conceptualized, scripted, choreographed, directed and showcased Indian Craft Fashion Show, 'Jewels of Indian Textiles and Costumes' during 'Texpressions 2019' on 30th March 2019 at the Department of Fibres & Processing Technology at Pidilite Pavilion, ICT. It was supported by teachers of her department. Costumes and modelling were done by students of TYB.Sc and MSc of Nirmala Niketan. The show was based on 3 concepts viz. traditional and contemporary –woven textiles; embroidered textiles, dyed and printed -Textiles and Costumes of India. The show was also presented at St Andrews Hall, Bandra, on 22nd Jan 2019, during the International Conference “A New Utopia: Promoting Dialogue for a Human and Sustainable Society” sponsored by UNESCO & The Cardinal Paul Poupard Foundation Chair for Inter-Religious & Inter-Cultural Dialogue.

Traditional and contemporary woven textiles and costumes

India, the land of culture and craft has been known to the world for its traditional textile arts through ages. Computer designed weaving has fashioned India's timeless fabric in garments that mesmerised the world with beauty and splendour. At a time when speed and precision have been the hallmark of production technology, the wholly hand spun, hand woven and hand painted khadi cloth epitomizes a product of ultimate uniqueness and luxury. Sarees like Kanjeevaram (TN), Dharmavaram (AP), Narayanpet (Maharashtra), Ahimsa silk of Jharkhand, Shantipuri Tussar silk, Muga silk of Assam are few of the rich multiple traditional textiles of India.

Handloom sector generates large employment opportunities. Handloom weavers cooperative production and sales societies were started with the purpose of preserving art of hand weaving and uplifting the life of artistically rich but economically poor weavers. The consumer weaver and designer weaver interactions always provide inputs for new designs. Zari originally was pure gold but synthetic zari has been used in most weaves due to affordability. Application of these woven textiles have diversified thus helping in sustaining this art form. New geographical locations have been added to the existing ones.

Traditional and modern embroidered textiles and costumes

Hand embroidery is an outcome of the honest, zealous and innate desires to practice beautiful stiches on the articles of daily use. Women expressed their artistic urge through embroidery resulting in delicate pieces of colourful art and costumes. The stiches used include darning, pattern and loop and running in systematic rhythm. With precision, this looks like weaving or painting and endless patterns are made such as dholak, Kasuti of Karnataka, Applique woven from Odisha, applique work from Uttar Pradesh, Hyderabad, Kolkata, Madhya Pradesh, Kantha of West Bengal, Phulkari of Punjab, Aari work of Kutch, Chikankari of Lucknow, embroidery of Manipur, Chamba rumal of Himachal Pradesh, Kashmiri kashida and Gota work of Rajasthan etc are a few names of world famous embroidery.

Quilt wallet, pillow covers in designs, sarees, dress materials etc are decorated with embroidery. Traditional embroideries were done on saris and costumes but today it is also done on Apparel, accessories and household linen like kerchiefs, bed covers, sofa covers, cushion covers, curtains, shopping bags, carpets, plain saris of silk, salwar suits, yokes, cuffs, collars, belts, pockets, dupattas, caps, and used as trimming for children's garments.In olden days the thread used were drawn from the tassels of pallav of saris. Now instead of that, silk yarns, mercerized cotton threads with guaranteed colour fastness is employed for all embroideries.

Tie & Dye called Bandhani and Leheriyas of Kutch, Gujarat and Rajasthan; block prints called Ajrakh, Bagru and Dhaboo of Kutch, Gujarat and Rajasthan; block printing textiles of M.P. called Bagh; Calico prints of Gujarat; single and double Ikats called Patolas of Gujarat and Pochampally of Hyderabad (AP) and Sambalpur (Odisha) are a few examples of exquisite coloured textile art forms of India. Folk Paintings of MP, Bengal, Rajasthan, TN etc are living expressions of people intrinsically linked with socio-cultural ambiance of the area. They are not mere decorations but spontaneous outpourings of religious devotions. Kalamkari paintings (A.P), Thangka paintings of Sikkim, Warli paintings of Maharashtra are world famous. Coloured textiles have come a long way in design, methods and products. Masterpieces of contemporary dyed, printed and painted textiles of India continue to inspire national and international designers satisfying consumer needs and demands.

All three forms of Woven, embroidered and coloured textiles and costumes are going through tremendous changes due to high demand of Indian Textiles. Current Activities in contemprorazing also involve training and demonstration on appropriate techniques at all stages of designing and operations to clusters in respective regions. As of now, the fashion designers are mushrooming, such young and aggressive expression through garments by using the local textiles, and are being tailored cut to suit the National as well as International markets. The International markets have been mesmerized by the hand woven, embroidered and coloured products by blending the traditional skill of weaving, embroidering, dyeing and printing with the new trend of designers to prepare the tailored cut products to take this sector into the global market. At the heart of all these rich traditional Textiles and Costumes are the Artisans who are the Pride of India, a tribute to India's art and creativity who need financial and educational support, recognition, appreciation and respect. The rampwalk to the tune of Indian patriotic songs and mucic from Bollywood, enthrilled one and all and sensitized the youth.

Texpression 2019

The Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, ICT organized annual cultural festival Texpression 2019 under TEQIP-Phase III to bid farewell to the final year B.Tech, M.Tech and M.Sc students as well as to facilitate interaction with the alumni on 30th March 2019 at Pidilite pavilion reviving fond memories of their days as students of this institute. Chaitali Gokhale and Riti Vishvakarama anchored the year under review like academic publications and awards etc. Since teaching them fibres science in second year and watching their performance, Prof M.D.Teli said that the faculty was proud of them and wished success in their careers.

With extravaganza of cine music, dance and duets by the students, Dr.K.S.Murthy a senior alumnus, also presented one-act play and rendered message for their benefit.

Author Details

Dr.K.S.Murthy,

Pidilite Industries Ltd