Indian silk board recognises Arunachal skill centre
The MG Community Skill Development & Training Centre in Oyan village in East Siang district of India's north-eastern state of Arunachal Pradesh has been recognized by the Silk Mark Organisation of India under the Central Silk Board (CSB) of the ministry of textiles. The centre can now use the 'silk mark' on its 100 per cent natural clothes. The CSB organisation controls quality of silk products in the country.
Set up in July 2014, the training centre has been conducting skill development training for creating self-employment avenues in rural areas. It is implementing central-sponsored projects for economic enhancement of the rural entrepreneurs through handloom and handicraft activities.
The skill development and training centre is an initiative of the Siang Tea Industries Ltd of Arunachal, which is working for promotion of organic farming in the state, according to media reports from the region. The centre recently organised an exhibition-cum-sale event at Oyan village, bordering Jonai in Assam in which rural weavers and entrepreneurs from different parts of the zone participated.
Three textile parks to be set up in Odisha
Around 17 firms have expressed interest to invest to the tune of ₹589 crore in the handlooms and textile sector in Odisha during the recent Make in Odisha Conclave 2018 in Bhubaneswar. Three textile parks will come up in the state at Dhamnagar, Chhatabar and Ramdaspur, according to state minister for handlooms, textiles and handicrafts Snehangini Chhuria.
Shahi exports, which has a ₹50-crore stitching unit in the state, will invest another ₹51 crore to expand its unit. While 2,500 workers are already engaged by the firm, the fresh investment will create jobs for another 2,500, media reports from the state quoted the minister as saying.
Aditya Birla Fashion (Pantaloons) will invest ₹66 crore in the state's apparel sector, while World Lotus Fashion will invest ₹20 crore to set up its stitching unit.
International fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra also showed interest to work for the state's handlooms sector. The state has received around 180 design reference collections on Sambalpuri sarees from Mohapatra, she added.
Textile Ministry still apprehensive over the RCEP pact
India has got a much-needed breather with the deferring of the conclusion of the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) pact, but at least three Central Ministries are still not convinced about the usefulness of the agreement.
“We have more convincing to do within the government. The Ministries of Steel, Heavy Industry and Textiles continue to be apprehensive as they feel their sectors are not ready to face competition from China and some others,” a government official said.
Trade Ministers from the 16 RCEP countries, which includes India, China, the 10-member ASEAN block, Japan, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand, decided in Singapore recently to give up the year-end deadline for a 'substantial package' and instead focus on concluding the trade deal by 2019.
The RCEP, which includes goods, services, investments, e-commerce, government procurement, once completed could be the largest free trade bloc in the world covering about 3.5 billion people, 30 per cent of the world's Gross Domestic Product and 40 per cent of world trade.
In the inter-ministerial consultations conducted by the Commerce Ministry, the Heavy Industry, Textiles and Steel Ministries have continued to seek exclusion of items pertaining to their respective sectors from tariff elimination/reduction obligation at the RCEP.
The Textiles Ministry wants a large number of items to be insulated as it fears competition from China and ASEAN nations such as Vietnam and Philippines, the official said. These Ministries are especially worried as there is pressure on India to take on commitments for eliminating tariffs on more than 90 per cent of items for most RCEP partners while allowing slightly lower commitments for countries such as China, which pose a huge challenge to the Indian industry. “One has to understand that the list of items on which no reduction commitments would be taken will be very small and include the super-sensitive items which would mostly be agricultural products,” the official added.
Arvind Millsto set up factory in AP
A proposal by India's Arvind Mills to set up its first plant outside Gujarat in Kuppam in Andhra Pradesh's Chittoor district was recently cleared by chief minister N Chandrababu Naidu at a state investment promotion board meeting in Amaravati. Likely to start production in early 2020, the mill will offer jobs to 20,000. Some other proposals were also cleared.
The plant will have a capacity to manufacture 24 million garments, primarily will produce denim jeans, annually, according to media reports from the state. Naidu is likely to lay the foundation for the mill on December 13. Japanese company THK will set up the plant.
15% rise in revenue seen
Meanwhile, Arvind Limited has witnessed 15 per cent growth in revenue from garment division and 21 per cent growth in advanced materials division in its Q2 results. EBIDTA improved at 24 per cent, partially driven by improvements in margins of advanced materials division.
The company's branded apparel business reported revenue of Rs 1227 crore, a rise of 13 per cent and EBITDA climbed 20 per cent. Recently, the National Company Law Tribunal (NCLT) has approved demerger of Branded Apparel and Engineering businesses into separate companies. The effective date of demerger and record date for allotment of shares is likely to be end of November.
The performance of Arvind continues to improve with growth and profitability of Power Brands validating the robustness of core business. Online sales went up 48 per cent in line with increasing e-commerce penetration in fashion retail. Innerwear business consisting of USPA, Hanes & CK rose 33 per cent during the quarter. For fiscal 2019, the revenue of Arvind Limited (Demerged) is expected to be 10 per cent and from advanced materials division is likely to grow at 24 per cent. While, revenue from textiles is projected to improve by 5-6 per cent.
New cotton finishing technology
Ultra thin coating technology offers new opportunities for cotton finishing. As part of a visit to the University of Georgia (UGA), Athens to deliver a seminar on “Sustainable Materials: Mind to Market,” at the department of textiles, merchandising and interiors there, it was obvious how interdisciplinary research is vital to move the textiles sector forward.
Professors Sergiy Minko and Suraj Sharma of the department of textiles, merchandising and interiors at UGA are exploiting nanotechnology to develop sustainable dyeing and finishing techniques for cotton textiles. The research group has come-up with nanocellulose gels that can be used to dye cotton and blends.
Nanocellulose gels obtained from bleached pulp are dyed to obtain nanocellulose-dye dispersions, which are then coated on to textiles. Spray coating and screen printing methods can be used to obtain the coloration using the gels.
Ms. Anuradhi Liyanapathiranage, a research scholar from Sri Lanka, working on the project stated that pretreatments such as scouring and bleaching do not affect the dyeing efficiency.
Ms. Smriti Rai from India has effectively utilized the ultrathin coating technology to dye cotton using reactive and indigo dyes. The gel technology uses less water and the dye fixation is higher than the exhaust method, stated Smriti Rai.
The research group is optimistic that cost-effective sustainable processes can be made commercially viable, which can move the textile industry into the next phase. By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
DyStar secures destruction of patent infringing dyes in Turkey
DyStar, a leading dyestuff and chemical manufacturer, has been successful in securing the destruction of 3.3 tons of textile dyes that infringed one of its patents for reactive red dyes. The dyes were detained at Mersin Free Zones following DyStar's customs application. The specialised Istanbul IP court subsequently granted a preliminary injunction order. The destruction took place earlier than expected on September 18, 2018 as the defendant agreed to the destruction and payment of compensation to DyStar before the final verdict of the court, according to DyStar.
DyStar has implemented an anti-counterfeiting programme worldwide since 2013. Turkey has rapidly become one of the most successful jurisdictions in implementing the programme. As part of the enforcement programme, DyStar recorded its patents with Turkish customs, carried out training, analysed each of the seized product samples promptly, and took action over each infringing product by initiating court proceedings where there was no settlement. Thanks to these actions, DyStar has secured the seizure of more than 100 tons of infringing product in Turkey.
Based on this effective programme, 50 custom suspension notifications were notified from four customs administrations. DyStar filed 14 court actions for infringement of its patents. A total of seven nullity actions against its asserted patents were received as counter-attacks, and five of these cases have already been finalised – all in favour of DyStar. This result indicates the strength of DyStar's patents.
Within this programme, more than 100 informative or warning letters regarding DyStar's patents have been sent to customers and target companies to build awareness in the market.
ICT Alumni, Apurba Banerjee from Brrrº elected chair and vice chair in AATCC committees
US company Brrrº's chief scientist Apurba Banerjee was recently elected to serve in several leadership positions of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists (AATCC). Banerjee was named Vice Chair of the C3 Technical Committee on Research (TCR), which is often a pathway to serving on the association's Executive Committee on Research in the future. Her three-year term begins in January. She was also named Chair of the Yarn and Other Substrate Committee, which is a subcommittee of the Thermoregulation Committee, and she was elected as Vice Chair of the Young Professionals Committee.
Apurba Banerjee-Courtesy: Brrr º
“It's a privilege to serve alongside some of the brightest minds in the textile industry as we work together toward a common goal of advancing technology and functionality,” Banerjee said.
Banerjee earned a Ph.D. in polymer, fiber and textile sciences from The University of Georgia, and she holds a Bachelor of Technology degree in textile and fiber processing from the Institute of Chemical Technology (formerly known as UDCT) in Mumbai, India. She was also a graduate research assistant at Colorado State University.
Nepal may get duty free access for RMG to the US in the revised items list
The United States is interested to revise the list of Nepali products enjoying duty free access through the Trade Preferences Act (TPA). US officials have assured Nepal that readymade garments (RMG) from the country will be considered for inclusion in that list, according to Chandra K Ghimire, secretary in the ministry of industry, commerce and supplies.
Seventy seven products are currently listed under the TPA. Ghimire said this after attending the fourth meeting of the Nepal-US Trade and Investment Framework Agreement (TIFA) Council recently in the United States, according to Nepali media reports.
A Ghimire-led delegation held talks with officials from various US departments, including the state department, the department of agriculture, the department of labour, the US Agency for International Development, and the United States Patent and Trademark Office, led by assistant US trade representative Mark Linscott.
The TPA, enforced in 2015 and to continue until 2025, offers duty free access to 77 Nepali products, including certain carpets and pashmina, headgear, shawls, scarves and travel goods. Nepal pushed for garments in particular, citing the high comparative advantage, and sought US support regarding exports until the country fully completes its political transition, Ghimire said.
The United States had been denying providing duty free benefits to Nepali garments saying that could violate a World Trade Organisation (WTO) clause. The US officials also expressed interest to offer technical support to Nepal to promote production of the goods under TPA lists. The US officials, however, expressed concern over the investment environment in Nepal and policy reforms at a time when Nepal is are heading towards political stability. Nepal signed the TIFA with the United States on April 16, 2011.
Intex South Asia inaugurated in Colombo
High Commissioner of India to Sri Lanka, Taranjit Singh Sandhu inaugurated the 4th edition of Intex South Asia, the largest international textile sourcing show in South Asia, in Colombo on November 14. The event is organized by Worldex India Exhibition and Promotion Pvt. Ltd. The India Pavilion has been set up by Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO).
The event partners include the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), the Retailers Association of India, Clothing Manufacturers Association of India and the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI). Sandhu encouraged Sri Lankan companies to be part of the supply and value chains of large Indian enterprises, according to a press release from the Indian High Commission.
Over 200 suppliers from around 15 countries are showcasing products like yarns, apparels, denim clothing and accessories at the show.
Social and Labour Convergence Project launched in Colombo
Sri Lanka was last month chosen for the global launch of the Social and Labour Convergence Project (SLCP), the country's Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF), the first industry body to be a signatory of the project launched in 2016, announced. SLCP aims to develop a unified and effective industry-wide assessment framework within the apparel and footwear industry.
The framework would reduce the audit fatigue of handling multiple audits and unlock resources like time, energy and money that can be utilised for improving working conditions. The project can change the way how manufacturers within the global apparel and footwear industry are evaluated by their customers, according to an SLCP press release. SLCP wants to achieve a participatory approach from all stakeholders moving away from traditional auditing. The training from 9 to 12 October in Colombo was conducted by JAAF, SLCP and the International Trade Centre (ITC), a United Nations agency, with support from MAS Holdings and the Hirdaramani Group. Backed by 23 brands, 37 factories and 17 verifiers from Sri Lanka will be involved in the SLCP operation for 2018. The second country in the 2018 Light Operation is China. The SLCP will go to scale from 2019 onwards, when the program will be rolled out to other countries as well. Over the last 30 months the project has gathered momentum with 180+ signatories currently committed to meeting the objectives of the project and having signed off on the Converged Assessment Framework they created together. This multi-stakeholder initiative includes 64 brands such as Nike, H&M, Gap Inc. and PVH, 38 manufacturers, audit agencies, consultancies, civil society, industry associations as well as governments. The International Labour Organisation (ILO) and the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) have joined the initiatives as observers.
RIL plans Rs 3K cr fresh investment in Odisha
Reliance Industries will make a fresh investment of Rs 3,000 crore in Odisha over the next three years as the state's per capita data consumption is among the highest in the country, its chairman Mukesh Ambani announced here. The company has already invested Rs 6,000 crore in Odisha, emerging as one of the biggest investors in the state “We are committing an investment Rs 3,000 crore in Odisha, in addition to Rs 6,000 crore invested so far. Our investment philosophy has a clear goal - to empower everyone in the march of development,” Ambani said at the plenary session of 'Make in Odisha - Conclave 2018'. Most of our investments go into creating digital infrastructure, the business tycoon said. He also said that Reliance Jio, the telecom arm of Reliance Industries, is not just another business - it is a “mission to transform India, to transform Odisha”. “We have created and sustained new employment opportunities of over 30,000 people in the last two years in the state,” he said.
Rahul Mehta re-elected CMAI President for 7th year term
The The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has re-elected Mr Rahul Mehta as President consecutively for the 7th Year Term .While thanking the Members of the Managing committee for having reposed Confidence in him, Mr Mehta assured that he will continue to do his best in the service of the Apparel Industry. Mr Rahul Mehta, after taking over as Presidentship of the Association also Elected his team of Office Bearers which consist of the following :
- Mr Rajesh Masand of Gambit Clothing Pvt Ltd - Vice President
- Mr Babubhai Ayar of Challenge Enterprises – Hon. Gen Secretary
- Mr Jayesh Shah of M Square Clothing (India) Pvt Ltd – Jt. Hon. Gen. Secretary
- Mr Rohit Munjal of R S Enterprises – Hon Treasurer
- Mr Ankur Gadia of Vinita Synthetic India Pvt Ltd – Jt. Hon. Treasurer
- Mr Ashok Shah of Jeaneration Clothing Pvt Ltd – Spl .Invitee
- Mr Premal Udani of Kaytee Corporation Pvt Ltd – Immediate Past President.
Gerber Technology to provide end-to-end 3D solution for fashion industry acquires Avametric
Gerber Technology has announced that it has acquired San Francisco based Avametric. Avametric develops the world's leading cloth simulation technology and enables fashion brands to deliver highly accurate 3D renderings of their products on customizable avatars for e-commerce and augmented reality (AR) applications. This move will position Gerber as the leader in 3D for the fashion and apparel industry. The acquisition follows 12 months of collaboration between the companies after Gerber announced in November 2017 they would be integrating Avametric's fabric simulation engine into their AccuMark 3D platform.
B Chandrasekhar; Dr S S Pillai; and Vishwadeep Kuila
“Avametric's strengths and capabilities are the perfect complement to our fully integrated software portfolio. They have the industry's best talent pool of scientists, designers and developers for 3D,” said Karsten Newbury, SVP and GM of Software at Gerber Technology. “Our team and many of our customers have already recognized that Avametric has the best fabric simulation engine in the industry and now we are able to connect consumer-facing virtual try-on software with our AccuMark and YuniquePLM platforms to deliver an end-to-end workflow. This allows our customers to provide their consumers personalized products “on demand”. The deal will also help us to continue to accelerate our 3D developments for our large user base globally – helping them to significantly increase speed and productivity of the creative and development process.” Interest in 3D is growing with over 60 percent of global fashion and apparel companies planning to adopt 3D technology within the next three years according to a recent survey Gerber conducted with their global customer base. The interest is driven by a need for speed, efficiency and a personalized consumer experience. Technology has become a key competitive differentiator with rapidly fashion trends and consumer expectations. “Consumers are looking to buy online, but they are still going into brick and mortar stores because they lack confidence in the fit they see virtually,” said Ari Bloom CEO, Avametric. “We believe a transformation is under way as consumers are adopting a virtual try-on experience that accurately portrays the fit they are looking for and our partnership with Gerber is helping us to bridge this confidence gap. Combined with the AccuMark suite and other Gerber products, we can now offer customers a personalized, on-demand shopping experience that significantly compresses the time to market. We are really excited about this opportunity to join an industry leader and make transformative changes.” The Avametric announcement was made to industry leaders at Gerber's 20th annual ideation tech conference. Transformation was the core topic as Gerber highlighted key trends in the fashion supply chain like the need to enable speed and personalization, driven by the digitalization of the fashion supply chain. Gerber also made other key announcements including:
- The launch of a cloud-based subscription program in North America for AccuMark, the industry-leading pattern design, grading, marker making and production planning software.
- The launch of YuniquePLM V8 cloud software, which includes a completely new and highly-intuitive user interface.
- The launch of additional subscription options early in 2019 allowing users to bundle together Gerber's software products as subscriptions (SaaS), making their solutions accessible and affordable for everyone, from start-up to full-scale global fashion and apparel brands.
- A partnership with ExactFlat for non-apparel applications, integrating AccuMark which will allow a user to open any 3D model and convert 3D to 2D patterns which can be passed into and modified in AccuMark.
Consumers need to be educated on Sustainable apparels
An increasing number of environmentally-conscious consumers are looking for sustainable apparel, and nearly a quarter of U.S. adult consumers say that they have purchased sustainable apparel, reports The NPD Group Group, Inc. - an American market research company.
As consumer interest in sustainability grows so do the efforts of the apparel industry, but there is a clear need to educate shoppers in order to make this connection. Educating and informing consumers regarding sustainable fashion and sustainability were among the topics discussed at a recently held panel discussion hosted by NPD and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City. The panel, which was moderated by Marshal Cohen, NPD's chief industry advisor, included Vanessa Urenda, co-Founder of LAMINI; Taryn Hipwell, founder, Beyond the Label and Author, How to Shop for Shi(f)t; Valérie Martin, vice president, global communications & culture at ALDO Group; and Sabra Krock, creative director and co-owner, Everything But Water. As the panelists pointed out, the definition of sustainability is often in the eye of the beholder, but it's important for consumers to know that the fashion industry's overall goal is to create a supply chain that is environmentally and socially conscious of its impact. Human rights in terms of social responsibility is a pillar of sustainability efforts in the industry. When NPD asked consumers what their top social concern is in terms of clothing production, 29 percent said human rights and fair wages. Human rights ranked significantly higher than consumers' concerns about toxic dyes and chemicals, animal welfare, minimizing waste, and global warming. One-third of consumers say a brand's social responsibility and social position are extremely important to their purchase decision. Although consumers aren't always aware if an apparel item is sustainable in terms of the label's commitment to environmental and social responsibility, if they were aware almost one-third of consumers say they would be willing to pay more for a sustainable apparel item. Young adult consumers, ages 18 to 34, are most inclined to spend more on sustainable apparel, and 33 percent of women say they would pay more for clothing that was described as sustainable, eco-friendly, organic, or ethical than for clothing that was not. On the other hand, the majority of consumers (two-thirds) were not willing to pay more for sustainability indicating they are looking for it to be a part of a brand's social responsibility “Sustainability will continue to be an important topic for consumers and the industry in the years to come,” says NPD's Cohen. “To attract consumers, particularly young adults and women, apparel brands and retailers will need to stay in touch with social responsibility issues, and educate and inform their customers with clear messaging and labeling about their sustainability efforts. Brands can't rely on the fine print on the inside label, it needs to be woven into the 'fabric' of the brand.”
Polyester sales remained healthy during 2Q FY19: Reliance
Firm energy prices continued to bolster the price uptrend across the polyester chain during 2Q FY19. PXNaphtha margins surged 45% Qo-Q ($487/MT) backed by firm upstream and downstream markets. Supply remained tight due to planned/unplanned maintenance and delayed shipments from the new start-up capacities. Reliance Industries Limited (RIL) benefited from its recent expansion of PX and MEG capacity at Jamnagar, according to a press communique issued by RIL. Reliance informed that PTA markets remained buoyant amidst increased polyester demand, tight supplies and strong futures markets. Consequently, PTA prices and margins firmed; prices were up 16% Q-o-Q and margins were up by 11% Q-o-Q, surpassing the 5-year average. PTA-PX delta touched its highest levels since 2011. MEG prices witnessed gradual decline through the quarter. Delayed port arrivals from last quarter piled up and downstream offtake remained cautious. During the quarter, average MEG prices declined 4% Q-o-Q, weakening delta over naphtha by 10% Q-o-Q ($ 476/ MT). Despite the decline, deltas continue to remain above the 5- year average, RIL stressed. Polyester sales, RIL said, remained healthy at quarter beginning and gradually slowed towards the end. Polyester filament yarn producers succeeded in passing down the rising cost to end-users; prices rose 11% Q-o-Q improving margins by 13% ($320/MT). However, PSF markets were sluggish; producers were pressured by rising inventory, limited downstream buying and tight cash flows. Despite 8% higher Q-o-Q prices, margins declined by 5% Q-o-Q ($144/ MT) due to firm intermediate prices. Global PET markets were seasonally weaker during the quarter. PET producers curtailed production and lowered prices to cover operating costs. On Q-o-Q, PET prices slipped 1%, however margins weakened by 36% on account of stronger feedstock prices, RIL said. Domestic polyester markets, RIL informed, grew by 14% Y-o-Y. Filament demand grew by 22% Y-o-Y as downstream diversified with new applications, expansion and improved buying due to firm prices. PSF demand slipped 5% Y-o-Y amidst prevalent weak buying. PSF downstream remained stressed due to liquidity crunch and buying remained cautious due to weak international markets. PET demand firmed 7% Yo-Y amidst improved downstream buying, supported by easing of concern on plastic ban; following Government notification excluding PET from plastic ban. Reliance continues to benefit from upcycle in the polyester chain. Fibre intermediate production during 2Q FY19 surged 16% Y-o-Y to 2.8 MMT while Polyester production increased 4% Y-o-Y at 0.74 MMT. Polyester chain benefited from margin and volume expansion in PX & PTA and domestic demand and volume growth in downstream polyester business. This led to overall margin expansion in polyester chain. However, this was partly offset by softer margins in polymers led by higher feedstock prices (naphtha and ethane), RIL noted.
Techtextil & Texprocess expo 2019 almost fully booked up
With around six months still to go before they open their doors, the trade-fair duo of Techtextil, Leading International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens, and Texprocess, Leading International Trade Fair for Processing Textile and Flexible Materials, is almost fully booked up. The number of registrations received for the two fairs (14 to 17 May 2019) is already significantly over that of the previous editions. Although companies can still register to exhibit at both events, they should not delay as the remaining exhibition space is limited.
Techtextil with a broad spectrum for all areas of application
To date, around 1,000 companies from 54 countries have registered for Techtextil 2019. The exhibitors at Techtextil present the complete spectrum of technical textiles and nonwovens. Next year will see a significant increase in the fields of technology and fibres & yarns. Also very well represented are suppliers of woven fabrics, coated textiles and functional apparel textiles. The exhibitors show fibre-based products for all areas of applications, in particular, an expanded range for the industry, for architecture and civil engineering, apparel, mobility, medicine, sport and hazard protection.
Texprocess shows the entire textile processing chain
With over 250 registrations already received from 31 countries, the concurrent Texprocess presents the complete spectrum of textile processing technologies from design, via cutting, making, trimming, textile digital printing, dressing and finishing, to textile logistics and textile recycling. In the case of Texprocess, too, there is only a limited amount of exhibition space still available.
New Techtextil Forum: deadline for programme proposals approaching rapidly
With the Techtextil Forum, Techtextil 2019 will have a new platform for the exchange of ideas and information between exhibitors and trade visitors, as well as researchers, developers and users of technical textiles. Techtextil Forum will be held within the framework of the fair, on all four days and free of charge for all trade-fair participants. Proposals for lectures, discussions and workshops can still be submitted until 16 November. Meanwhile, nn the theme of 'Textile Structures for New Building', the Techtextil trade fair will once again be giving awards for young ideas on building with textile-based materials. Submissions can be made from now onwards. Be it lightweight structures, temporary buildings or creative interior design: students and young professionals in the fields of architecture, structural engineering, product design and similar professional areas can apply from now onwards for the competition organised by Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and non-wovens (14 to 17 May 2019). The call is for ideas on building with fibre-based materials. Cash prizes totalling € 8,000 beckon. The competition is supported by the international network, TensiNet, as a sponsor, the University.
GRS certification for RadiciGroup recycled polyester
RadiciGroup's post-consumer recycled polyester yarns, r-Radyarn and r-Starlight – UNI 11505-certified since 2014 – have recently been certified to the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) promoted by the Textile Exchange, a non-profit organization that operates internationally for the promotion and responsible development of sustainability in the textile industry. From 22 to 24 October, the organization sponsored a three-day event in Milan where the key theme was “Accelerating Sustainability in Textile and Fashion”. “GRS certification was yet another goal achieved by the Group – evidence of its customary transparency with the greatest clarity,” pointed out Filippo Servalli, marketing and sustainability director of RadiciGroup, emphasizing how measuring environmental impacts and continuously working to reduce them is always a top priority of the Group. “Indeed, these are the operative words guiding the RadiciGroup Comfort Fibres Business Area on a daily basis on its road to certifying its fibres obtained from recovered materials.” The GRS certificates obtained by RadiciGroup cover two families of products: raw and yarn-dyed 95% r-PET and solution-dyed 85% r-PET. Compliance with GRS requirements allows the Group to provide a third-party-verified report with every delivery of r-Starlight and r-Radyarn, certifying the content and the origin of the recycled materials used to make the product, as well as its compliance with the environmental and social requirements of the entire supply chain. Thus product requirements (covered by UNI 11505) are complemented by system requirements: a decision that responds to market demand and moves toward full traceability of the raw materials. r-Radyarn and r-Starlight post-consumer recycled polyester yarns, are on the Textile Exchange list of “preferred fibres”, that is, fibres which can be traced, comply with precise reporting standards and give positive environmental and social results, and whose environmental impact can be calculated using a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). Moreover, the GRS-certified products are in conformity with the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MSRL) compiled within the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme, an initiative with the objective of eliminating hazardous chemical substances in the textile industry. “Again with the aim of saving natural resources, and water in particular,” Mr. Servalli concluded, “the Group offers solution-dyed polyester (and nylon) yarn. Solution dyeing requires less water and energy usage compared to conventional yarn or piece dying, because the colour is added 'upstream' during the extrusion stage and thus becomes incorporated into the polymer matrix.” As demonstrated by LCA studies conducted by NOYFIL SA and NOYFIL SpA (Group companies engaged in polyester fibre production), solution-dyed yarn has a lower environmental impact compared to traditional yarn-dyed yarn. This difference is even greater for solution-dyed rRadyarn, made with recycled polymer. Solution-dyed yarn offers a number of additional advantages, resulting in excellent performance:
- Colour and additives incorporated into the fibre
- High light colourfastness
- High colour consistency
- Lower oligomer release
Solution dyeing is typically utilized for dyeing large quantities of product in a standardized production process. However, RadiciGroup is set up to apply this sustainable technique even for the production of small lots, ensuring a high degree of consistency and homogeneity. Furthermore, the company provides an in-house service for the development of colour recipes and samples of solution-dyed yarns capable of meeting any customer need for the creation of colour palettes for any particular purpose.
Beaulieu International Group announces global price increases for its Engineered Products
Beaulieu Engineered Products announces global price increases across its Fibres, Yarns and Technical Textiles divisions effective as of January 1st 2019, or as contract terms allow. The move follows on-going significant increases in energy, raw material and delivery costs. Sales representatives will contact customers individually over the coming weeks to discuss the impact of the price changes on their specific products. Karena Cancilleri, Vice President of Beaulieu Engineered Products, comments: “Through the price increases, Beaulieu Engineered Products will be able to maintain the level of innovative and reliable support our customers expect. At the same time, our three divisions will continue to look at ways to improve their operations to limit the effect of any further internal cost increases on customers.”
Fast fashion needs to be put on the slow track: UN Alliance on Sustainable Fashion to be launched
Fashion revolves around the latest trends but is the industry behind the curve on the only trend that ultimately matters - the need to radically alter our patterns of consumption to ensure the survival of the planet.
The fashion industry produces 20 per cent of global wastewater and 10 per cent of global carbon emissions - more than all international flights and maritime shipping. Textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of water globally and it takes around 2,000 gallons of water to make a typical pair of jeans.
Every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned. If nothing changes, by 2050 the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world's carbon budget. Washing clothes also releases half a million tonnes of microfibres into the ocean every year.
Then there is the human cost: textile workers are often paid derisory wages and forced to work long hours in appalling conditions. But with consumers increasingly demanding change, the fashion world is finally responding with A-listers, like Duchess Meghan Markle, leading the way with their clothing choices and designers looking to break the take-make-waste model.
“Most fashion retailers now are doing something about sustainability and have some initiatives focused on reducing fashion's negative impact on the environment,” says Patsy Perry, senior lecturer in fashion marketing at the University of Manchester. For example, last year, Britain's Stella McCartney teamed up with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to launch a report on redesigning fashion's future. “However, there is still a fundamental problem with the fast fashion business model where revenues are based on selling more products, and therefore retailers must constantly offer new collections. It would be unrealistic to expect consumers to stop shopping on a large scale, so going forward, I would expect to see more development and wider adoption of more sustainable production methods such as waterless dyeing, using waste as a raw material, and development of innovative solutions to the textile waste problem,” she says. Pioneering solutions to address environmental challenges will be at the heart of the fourth UN Environment Assembly next March. The meeting's motto is to think beyond prevailing patterns and live within sustainable limits—a message that will resonate with fashion designers and retailers seeking to reform their industry. At the March meeting, UN Environment will formally launch the UN Alliance on Sustainable Fashion to encourage the private sector, governments and non-governmental organizations to create an industry-wide push for action to reduce fashion's negative social, economic and environmental impact and turn it into a driver for the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals. Across the United Nations, agencies are working to make fashion more sustainable, from the Food and Agricultural Organization protecting arable land, to the Ethical Fashion Initiative set up by the International Trade Centre to the work of UN Environment in fostering sustainable manufacturing practices. And some entrepreneurs are already designing the fashion of the future: Spain's Ecoalf creates shoes from algae and recycled plastic as part of its Upcycling the Oceans collection. Founded by Javier Goyeneche in 2012, Ecoalf collects ocean plastics from 33 ports and turns the trash into shoes, clothing and bags. In Amsterdam, GumDrop collects gum and turns it into a new kind of rubber, Gum-tec, which is then used to make shoes in collaboration with marketing group I Amsterdam and fashion company Explicit. GumDrop says around 3.3 million pounds of gum end up on Amsterdam's paths every year, costing millions of dollars to clean. It takes around 2.2 pounds of gum to make four pairs of sneakers. Outdoor gear retailer Patagonia, based in California, has been producing fleece jackets using polyester from recycled bottles since 1993, working with Polartec, a Massachusetts-based textile designer. Patagonia also encourages shoppers to buy only what they need, and mends and recycles older items. Gothenburg-based Nudie Jeans uses organic cotton for its jeans and offers free repairs for life. Customers also get a discount if they hand in their old jeans. Cambodia-based Tonlé uses surplus fabric from mass clothing manufacturers to create zero-waste fashion collections. It uses more than 97 per cent of the material it receives and turns the rest into paper. In the Netherlands, Wintervacht turns blankets and curtains into coats and jackets. Designers Yoni van Oorsouw and Manon van Hoeckel find their raw materials in secondhand shops and sorting facilities where donations are processed. San Francisco- and Bali-based Indosole turns discarded tyres in Indonesia into shoes, sandals and flip-flops, while Swiss firm Freitag upcycles tarpaulins, seat belts and bicycle inner tubes to make their bags and backpacks. In New York, Queen of Raw connects designers, architects and textile firms with dead stock of sustainable fabrics from factories, brands and retailers. Queen of Raw says more than US$120 billion worth of unused fabric sits in warehouses, waiting to be burned or buried. Novel Supply, based in Canada, makes clothes from natural and organic fabrics and is developing a take-back programme to find alternative ways to use garments at the end of their life. For founder Kaya Dorey, winner of UN Environment's Young Champion of the Earth award in 2017, the aim is to create a zero-waste, closed-loop fashion model. Retailer H&M has a successful garment collection scheme and in October, lifestyle brand and jeans manufacturer Guess said it was teaming up with i:Collect, which collects, sorts and recycles clothes and footwear worldwide, to launch a wardrobe recycling programme in the US. Customers who bring in five or more items of clothing or shoes, will receive discounts. Wearable items will be recycled as secondhand goods, while unwearable items will be turned into new products like cleaning cloths or made into fibres for products like insulation. Some argue that recycling is itself energy intensive and does not address our throwaway culture—the number of times a garment is worn has declined by 36 per cent in 15 years. An alternative might be found in a viable rental market for clothes. Pioneers in this field include Dutch firm Mud Jeans, which leases organic jeans that can be kept, swapped or returned, Rent the Runway, Girl Meets Dress and YCloset in China. “The rental model is clearly a winner for the higher end of the market where consumers may have no intention of wearing an occasion dress more than once… but at the lower end, it's all too easy to go online and be able to buy outright any trend or item,” says Perry. “For rental to be a success at this market level, companies need to offer sufficient choice of brands and styles that would engage consumers and tempt them away from outright purchase, and the rental service needs to be smooth and faultless.” Her best fashion advice? Less is always more. “Keep your clothing in use for longer to reduce its environmental footprint, as well as reducing the amount of new stuff you need to buy and the consequent use of resources. This also reduces the impact of the disposal of perfectly good but unwanted clothes.”
Promoting collaborations for textiles of the future
Fulgar, a leading Italian yarn producer, will participate in the Fabbrica del Vapore space in Milan for the Exhibition Textile Evolution - Made in Italy 4.0, which takes place this month.
The purpose of the show is to promote the relationship between research, design creativity, sustainability and technology in the Italian textiles sector, highlighting the importance of the synergy. “The area dedicated to Fulgar shows the inspiration high-tech textile innovations provide for the new frontiers of an increasingly functional, eco-sustainable fashion offer, featuring creations resulting from collaborations with prestigious brands, like garments by the urban and sportswear brand Sease with Evo and garments made by Cifra with Evo and the exclusive patented WKS technology,” the company reports.
Cifra's warp knitting seamless (WKS) technology allows the creation of garments, which have no uncomfortable seams where the garment comes in contact with the skin – both on upper body and legs. It also allows a high reduction of waste, compared to the tradition production of cut-and-sew garments. The combination with the bio-based yarn Evo by Fulgar is said to enhance its value in terms of sustainability, making it possible to produce high-performance, green and fully traceable garments. Fulgar's Marketing Manager Alan Garosi will present on the topic of Biosynthetics, a new generation of man-made fibres – from plant to nylon, with a focus on Evo. His talk forms part of the national conference Textile Sustainability - the brands describe themselves organised by AICTC (the Italian Association of Textile and Colour Chemistry) taking place on 23 November at the Textile Evolution Exhibition. An innovative bio-based yarn developed after years of research and study of the highest engineering standards, Evo by Fulgar is made from castor oil – a 'not for food' plant that grows spontaneously, Fulgar explains. It is a renewable resource that does not require high amounts of water and does not use up arable land that can be used for food uses. According to the manufacturer, suitable for any textile application and ideal for the sportswear, Evo by Fulgar is ultra-light, super stretch and extremely breathable, dries quickly and does not need ironing, has thermal properties and natural bacteriostatic. This whole range of distinctive values and benefits aims to ensure maximum comfort and performance, while retaining an intense eco-awareness. www.fulgar.com
SDC International's Innovation Summit-2019
SDC International team has announced the SDC International's Innovation Summit-2019 on Sunday, 20th January 2019.
The SDC International along with SDC EC (India) as a supporting organisation would collaborate with India-ITME society at the GTTES 2019 and host the International conference on Sunday, 20th January 2019. The conference would be from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm at the exhibition area Hall No 4 Bombay Exhibition Centre, (NESCO) Off Western Express Highway, Goregaon (East), Mumbai The theme of the conference is 'Educating the Technology Innovations in Textile Colouration'. The panel discussion would evolve around the theme” Realistic assessment of the newer technologies for textile colouration”. Our mission is to impart the audience a glimpse of future technologies that would influence and assist creation of a sustainable textile manufacturing. The presence of experts from the Textiles colouration would provide a rare opportunity to attendees learn from their expertise. The target audience for the event is middle and top management from textile colouration.
Further information from
SDC International Limited
Unit no 27, Ground Floor, Near MacDonald's Lodha Boulevard Commercial Premises Co. Op. Society Ltd, Majiwade, On Eastern Express Highway, Thane West, Thane-400609
Delegate registration: https://goo.gl/bPm4bY
link valid till December 2nd, 2018
Changing Landscape of Cotton and Textile Engineering Education
Cotton and textile engineering education's landscape has been changing to better reflect the change and growth of the field.
Recently, a chat with Professor Gajanan Bhat, Chairperson of the Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors, at Athens-based University of Georgia (UGA) in his office clearly presented a picture on how the education in the field of fiber science and textile engineering has evolved and is changing.
Interestingly, it is pleasing to report that University of Georgia is celebrating 100 years this year of offering courses in textiles and clothing. With the ending of World War-I in 1918, University of Georgia created the Division of Home Economics that offered textiles course.
Bhat stated, today UGA offers graduate degrees in polymer and fiber science and international merchandising. Undergraduate level education focuses of fashion merchandising and design in many institutes in the United States and Europe. Advanced level research and education focuses on smart materials, polymer and fiber science and management, showcasing that the focus has shifted from the traditional offering of textile engineering courses. The shifting of textile manufacturing in developed economies has forced this change, stated Bhat, who has been in the textile academia for 29 years.
While textile engineering has been one of the founding departments of Texas Tech University in 1925, fiber related advanced level degrees are offered through the Department of Environmental Toxicology and Plant and Soil Sciences. Students with textiles and fiber science backgrounds could get graduate degrees in the Department of Environmental Toxicology focusing on materials science projects that concentrate on countermeasures to toxic chemicals, materials to enhance human health and protect the environment, such as cotton based materials to absorb toxic oils.
Research areas in the UGA's Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors focus on nanocellulose, niche areas in manufacturing such as digital printing, bio-based plastics from algae, stated Professor Bhat.
As with the case of the University of Georgia and Texas Tech University, the landscape of textile engineering education has shifted in its 100 years of offering the course so as to reflect the need and the nature of the field. But still the field offers tremendous opportunities as there are emerging opportunities in integrating electronics with textiles, cost effective biodegradable materials, taking cotton into next phase by infusing functional capabilities at the farm level, to name a few. By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA