News and Notes

Excerpt: Here are the news and developments in the textiles Industry across the world

Apparel exports on upswing since last four months

THE apparel exports in January 2019 stood at US $ 1,528 million, which was 11% higher than December 2018, according to Official statistics. The quick estimates for February 2019 indicate a 7% growth on YoY basis. This was the fourth month in a row when India's apparel exports increased on YoY basis. However, the overall exports in FY2019 (Apr-Jan) are 6% lower than that in FY2018 (Apr-Jan), it may be noted here. Meanwhile, the apparel imports in FY2019 (Apr-Jan) stood at US$933 million which is 51% higher than that in FY2018 (Apr-Jan). After continuously declining for the last four months, apparel imports have increased by 18% in January 2019 as compared to the previous month Imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to India, has increased by 108% in FY2019 (Apr-Jan) as compared to FY2018 (Apr-Jan), it may be noted here.

Exporters to get upgraded input tax reimbursement scheme on all textiles

THE government is working on a plan to extend the upgraded Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies scheme (RoSCTL) — that reimburses garments and made-up exporters all un-remitted input taxes paid at the State and Central levels — to all textile products. This is being done to prepare the sector for an eventual withdrawal of the Merchandise Export Incentive Scheme (MEIS) that flouts global trade rules. “The textile sector has long graduated out of the special dispensation that the WTO extends to vulnerable sectors or countries that need support by allowing them to extend export sops that are otherwise banned. If the MEIS is extended for a longer period to textile exporters and a WTO member files a dispute, there is no way India can defend itself. That is why there is a hurry to replace the scheme for the sector first before moving on to other sectors,” opined a government official. Under the popular MEIS, claimed by a bulk of garments and textiles exporters, the government gives incentives to exporters equivalent to about 4 per cent of their export value in the form of duty credit scrips that can be used to pay customs duties and are freely transferable. Since it is a direct export subsidy, and the textile sector's phase-out period for such subsidies ended in 2018, it would have to be withdrawn soon. “The government has now decided to withdraw the MEIS scheme as soon as possible and extend the Rebate of State and Central Levies scheme to all textile sectors, including fibre, yarn and fabric,” the official said. But this will now probably happen after the general elections, he added. Meanwhile, garments and made-ups manufacturers will be allowed to enjoy the benefits of both the RoSCTL and the MEIS till the latter is withdrawn as exports from the two sectors have taken a beating in the current year. “The Indian textile exporters have a cost disability of 15-20 per cent compared to their competitors because of high input costs. Letting them take advantage of two schemes can help them tide over the present low,” the official said. The RoSCTL includes value-added tax on fuel used in transportation, captive power, farm sector, mandi tax, duty of electricity, stamp duty, embedded SGST and CGST paid on inputs and Central excise duty on fuel. “Although the new scheme has been implemented this month for only a one-year period, the idea is to make it permanent and make it a replacement for the MEIS,” the official said. Once the MEIS is withdrawn from the textiles sector, it would be taken away one by one from other sectors as well as India has moved above the threshold of a per capita gross national income of $1,000, which makes it ineligible to offer export sops to any sector. “While for the textiles sector, there is no room for further extension of the implementation period beyond 2018 as exports officially crossed the threshold limit of 3.25 per cent of world exports in 2010 and the eight-year phase-out period is over, New Delhi is trying to bargain for a longer phaseout period for other sectors,” the official said.

GSP export benefits withdrawal: India plans to seek deadline extension from US

INDIA is considering to seek extension of the deadline set by the US for withdrawal of export benefits to domestic exporters under Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) programme, sources said. Earlier this month, the US has decided to go ahead with its decision to scrap the preferential trade benefit under GSP scheme after 60 days, which is expected to impact India's exports to the US worth USD 5.6 billion under this scheme. Although, the government has said that the US government's move to withdraw duty concessions on certain products under the GSP programme will not have any significant impact on exports to America, small and medium exporters have flagged concerns. Sources also said that issues can be sorted by holding bilateral dialogues as the US is important economic and strategic partner of India. They added that India may seek two more months for withdrawal of export benefits. The commerce ministry had said that the US move will not have a significant impact on exports to America as the benefits were only about USD 190 million annually. India exported goods worth USD 5.6 billion under GSP last year, but India's total GSP benefits were to the tune of only USD 190 million. GSP benefits are envisaged as non-reciprocal and non-discriminatory to be extended by developed countries to developing economies. US President Donald Trump has said he intends to end the preferential trade status granted to India and Turkey, asserting that New Delhi has failed to assure America of "equitable and reasonable" access to its markets, an announcement that could be seen as a major setback to bilateral trade ties. The US Trade Representative's Office has said that removing India from the GSP programme will not take effect for at least 60 days after notifications to Congress and the Indian government, and it will be enacted by a presidential proclamation. As many as 3,700 products get GSP benefits but India exports only 1,900 items such as chemicals and engineering under that concession, which was introduced in 1976 by the US.

VJTI's VASTRA 2019 – A Huge Success

THE 16th edition of the annual technical summit VASTRA 2019 was celebrated on the 15th and 16th of February 2019. VASTRA'19, organized by the Textile Manufacturers Department of VJTI Mumbai, is a national level technical and fashion summit devoted in creating an unforgettable experience for all its participants and simultaneously providing unique opportunities to the budding textile technologists for showcasing their talents in front of large audiences and top-notch judges. INDIA ITME Society was the title sponsor of Vastra'19 in association with Liva fluid fashion, A.T.E. Enterprises, Garware Technical Fibres and Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

The event witnessed the presence of several hundreds of dignitaries from all over India, including the notable alumni of the Textile Manufactures Department and guests from the textile industry. The opening day commenced with the inaugural function wherein the audience was addressed by Mr.Yogesh Kusumgar (Chairman- Kusumgar Corporates), Dr. Anup Rakshit (Executive Director- ITTA), Dr. Dhiren Patel (Director- VJTI), Dr. Suranjana Gangopadhyay (HoD) and Mr Bhupendra Thakur (Head- Operations - INDIA ITME Society). VASTRA is known for its competitive events like Technical paper presentation, Technical poster presentation, Product Marketing, Technical Quiz, Xpression, Spontaneous Sketching, Garment Display and Fashion Philia. Students from many colleges in India participated in all events which were judged by prominent personalities from the textile industry. Guest lectures were delivered by industry experts like Mr. Gurudas. Aras (Director- A.T.E. Enterprises), Rakesh Gaikwad (National Sales Manager- DSM), Mr. Pranav Khanna (Intellecap- Mumbai) and Mr. Navin Agrawal (VP- A.T.E. Enterprises). The Textile Alumni Meet (TAM) was organized under the banner of Vastra'19. The event witnessed the presence of prominent alumni of the department, Mr. Gurudas Aras (Director- ATE Enterprises) and Mr. Vikas Sharan (Director- Saurer Textile Solutions) as guests of honor along with Mr. Umesh Gupta (Chairman- VJTI Alumni Association) who graced the inaugural session. Highlight of the evening was the felicitation of the Golden jubilee batch of 1969 and silver jubilee batch of 1994. Final year B.Tech and DTM batches are also felicitated on this occasion. The Textile Department has received funding under the CSR activity from Banswara Syntex Ltd., Oerlikon India, Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Kusumgar Corporates and Saurer India Pvt Ltd . A.T.E. Enterprises has sponsored fellowships to three indigent and deserving students. Suvin Advisors has supported the department with the tender preparation, architectural and electrical designing expertise. Funds have also been received from the generous alumni for the development of the departmental infrastructure, Textile Alumni Meet (TAM) provided a platform for interaction and networking amongst the prominent industry personnel and the students of the department. Prof. Sunil Tetambe and Student GS - Mr. Yash Trivedi thanked all participants and supports for making VASTRA 2019 a big success and they are sure that the next edition will be bigger and more eventful.

IACC conference on America First & Make in India

IACC Textile Forum in association with US Commercial Service, US Consulate, Mumbai is organizing one day Conference on Textiles “America First & Make in India: Together Achieving USD 100 Billion Trade in Textiles” scheduled on Wednesday, 24th April, 2019 at The Hotel Taj Mahal Palace, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, Mumbai. The objective of the Conference is to create, develop & sustain successful bilateral partnership in textiles between USA & India. This would increase scope for trade and promotion of niche sectors in textiles such as apparels, home textiles, technical textiles and textile machinery to enrich each other strengths and create enduring partnerships. In order to promote joint investment & to support favorable trade partnership, there will be Representations from two States of USA, North Carolina & South Carolina.

The American textile sector is driven by superior technology & high-end innovation having stronghold in every segment of textile manufacturing, starting from heart valves and stents to aircraft bodies and advanced body armor, intelligent fabrics, scientific athletic wear and home textiles. Indian companies can learn and collaborate with U.S. companies and participate in the U.S. textile manufacturing opportunities involving FDI into the U.S. Similarly, the Indian textile industry exhibits the rich cultural heritage of India and now with its newer modern manufacturing systems, achieving wider variety of fabrics, techniques and innovation in producing qualitative textiles. India's competitive advantage in fiber to fabric, along with its many textile clusters, can meet the ever-growing demand of the American textile industry. The conference brings thought leaders, policy makers, textile stalwarts, and academicians to deliberate and create a road map to deepen trade and investments between both nations, as well as creating textile ethos & ambience which benefits America First and Make in India.

Further information from: Satyanarayan Rath IACC Secretariat Indo-American Chamber of Commerce 1-C, Vulcan Insurance Building, Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate, Mumbai – 400 020 INDIA Tel.: +91-22-22821413 / 22836340, E-mail: ho@iaccindia.com, Website: www.iaccindia.com

National Conference on 'Role of innovations in developing sustainable fashion design and luxury fashion goods’

BENGALURU North University in association with Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd, Bangalore & Army Institute Of Fashion And Design, Bangalore has organised a National Conference on the topic “Role of innovations in developing sustainable fashion design and luxury fashion goods” on 25th April 2019 at the Jnana Jyothi Auditorium, Central College Campus, Bangalore Sustainable fashion is today a highly debated and increasingly covered topic in media and at seminars worldwide. More and more clothing companies are transforming their business models and improving their supply chains to reduce overall environmental impact and improve social conditions in factories. There is a growing awareness among consumers, especially among younger generations. Three important trends can be noted for the global fashion industry over the coming years. Firstly, fashion consumers are likely to grow increasingly tired of the mass-produced, fast-to market and similar-looking fashion styles that dominate the market today. Instead, one is likely to see a rise in the demand for more personalized items of higher quality that are produced 'on-demand' (such as tailor-made, custom-made and bespoke items). 'Fashion on-demand' has been identified as “the missing piece in the puzzle” but is now finally emerging on a broader scale. 'Fashion on-demand' implies that the customer can choose his/her preferred style, fabric, size and possible details from a range of pre-designed options, thus “co-creating” an item of choice before production. Another concept that will continue to grow in popularity over the coming years is 'circular fashion'. Essentially, the concept 'circular fashion' combines the key theories of “sustainable fashion” with the notion of a “circular economy”, the latter which has accelerated in popularity over the last five years. Finally, a third concept is now entering the fashion scene, i.e. the concept of 'compassionate fashion'. While respect for workers, animals and the natural environment has always been at the core of the ethical fashion movement, the broader fashion industry is now opening up to a fundamental shift from simply being mindful to also feeling true compassion towards how people, animals and ecosystems are affected across the supply chain. This transition from mere consciousness to genuine compassion means that companies will begin to lead 'from their hearts' as opposed to simply 'from their minds.' Luxury brands have always been fashion industry leaders, with admirable aesthetic value and innovative yet traditional business management. The brands constantly struggle to secure profits by providing novel value to customers through quality products and services, customer management, retail strategies, and innovative marketing mixes. To survive the recent unforeseen challenges of heated competition, they have turned toward marketing communication using social media. Social media are the two-way communication platforms that allow users to interact with each other online to share information and opinions. Use of social media sites such as Twitter and Facebook has already expanded to almost every luxury fashion brand and been evaluated as business take-off tools.

Further details from Principal, Army Institute of Fashion and Design, Nagareshwara Nagenahalli, Kothanur Post, Bangalore 560077 Email: aifdonline@gmail.com, Contact. Mrs Niveditha : 9008822922, Mrs Veena K Thimmaiah 9686157114, Mrs Shashikala H: 9844403237

AATCC publishes International Standard for resistance of E-Textiles

AATCC research committee RA111, Electronically-Integrated Textiles, recently approved its first evaluation procedure! AATCC EP13, Evaluation Procedure for Electrical Resistance of Electronically-Integrated Textiles, is one of the very first international standards for e-textiles. The procedure provides detailed instructions for measuring resistance of e-textiles—a key indicator of functionality. It also includes guidance and calculations for determining change in resistance after laundering, stretch, or other treatment. AATCC EP13 is currently available for purchase from the AATCC website as a downloadable PDF. It will be included in the 2019 AATCC Technical Manual Mid-Year Supplement published this summer. AATCC standards are developed, approved, and periodically reviewed by a global team of volunteer subject matter experts. All stakeholders are welcome to participate in this consensus-based process. The standards are recognized and used around the world.

E-Textile Evaluation

Work on AATCC EP13 began in 2015 when manufacturers approached AATCC about developing standardized test methods to allow everyone—large and small companies alike—to objectively evaluate and sell e-textile products. More than 100 people expressed interest in the subject and RA111, Electronically Integrated Textiles Test Methods, officially became an AATCC research committee in March 2016. The group agreed that the first procedure should be as simple and accessible as possible—no expensive or complicated equipment. AATCC EP13 is just that. The procedure can be performed on a variety of materials, including those with woven, knitted, printed, or stitched conductive elements. AATCC EP13 is suitable for component fabrics or complete e-textile products. It is designed to be performed in standard atmospheric conditions for textile testing and the apparatus can be purchased inexpensively from a variety of sources. In addition to being simple to perform, the procedure had to be repeatable. The committee researched and discussed the best ways to control variables such as distance, pressure, and contact area. An interlaboratory study was performed to determine the precision of AATCC Ep13.

Next Steps

Ra111 is currently balloting two additional standards. One is a test method for laundering e-textiles and the other is a laboratory procedure for exposing e-textiles to a variety of conditions. The standard is based on existing test methods for perspiration, UV radiation, etc., with specific instructions for preparing e-textile specimens to test the change in electrical resistance. And the committee's work is far from done! A task group is already working on a stretch test for e-textiles. Other projects include ongoing revision of the existing standards to reflect new knowledge and new technology. As the foreword to AATCC EP13 says, “At the time this evaluation procedure was developed, electronically-integrated textiles (e-textiles) were still a nascent product category…As e-textile technology evolves, more specialized methods, or options within this method, may be developed.”

Huntsman updates first quarter 2019 outlook

HUNTSMAN Corporation management will be presenting to investors over the coming days at the Goldman Sachs Houston Chemical Intensity Days Conference in Houston, Texas. The presentations and discussions will reflect Huntsman's updated outlook for the first quarter 2019. Huntsman's largest business segment, Polyurethanes, is seeing improving trends in China. However, this is currently being more than offset by a slower-than-expected seasonal pickup in construction-related markets and lower demand in automotive in North America, as well as softer demand patterns across most of the major European markets, including automotive. While Huntsman expects the Polyurethanes segment first quarter results to be a bit softer than previously expected due to overall softer volumes, the margins in the downstream business remain stable. Huntsman expects that the Performance Products segment results for the first quarter will likely be flat to down from the fourth quarter 2018, versus the previous expectation of flat to up, due largely to weather-related delays in the agricultural markets and weaker oilfield chemical demand. Within the Advanced Materials segment, Huntsman is seeing similar pockets of softness, such as in construction and coatings, yet Huntsman still expects that its first quarter results will be modestly up from the fourth quarter 2018, which is roughly in line with previous expectations. The Textile Effects segment continues to feel the effects of lingering challenges in China resulting in softer volumes than previously expected. Huntsman expects first quarter results in this segment to be similar to fourth quarter 2018. As a result of these changes to the outlook, largely resulting from a slower seasonal pickup in North America and a softer European economy, Huntsman expects its first quarter 2019 consolidated adjusted EBITDA to be 10% or so below fourth quarter 2018. Peter R. Huntsman, Chairman, President and CEO, commented "We are pleased to see business conditions improve within our Polyurethanes segment in Asia following the Chinese New Year, and our downstream global strategy is working. Despite softer-than-anticipated conditions in Europe and a slower seasonal start in North America, our downstream margins are holding firm. While the first quarter has been more challenging than anticipated, it is largely volumetric. We continue to see inventory levels reduced and general long-term fundamentals intact. Absent macro events occurring that are out of our control, we remain cautiously encouraged that the rest of the year will improve, and we reaffirm our prior full year guidance of 2019 adjusted EBITDA between 5% and 7% lower than 2018."

New study reveals natural dyes use in cloths, thousands of years ago

EVEN thousands of years ago people wore clothing with colourful patterns made from plant and animal-based dyes. Chemists from Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg (MLU) have created new analytical methods to examine textiles from China and Peru that are several thousand years old. In the scientific journal Scientific Reports they describe their new method that is able to reconstruct the spatial distribution of dyes, and hence the patterns, in textile samples. Chemists Dr Annemarie Kramell and Professor René Csuk from MLU examined two ancient textile samples. One comes from the ancient Chinese city of Niya and was probably once part of a shirt. It is over 2,000 years old. The other sample comes from Peru and dates back to 1100 to 1400 AD. It was produced by the Ichma people who lived in Peru at that time. Today, there is often little evidence of the colourfulness of such ancient clothing. "Time has not treated them well. What was once colourful is now mostly dirty, grey and brown," says René Csuk. Over time, the natural dyes have decomposed as a result of the effects of light, air and water, explains the chemist. In the past, only natural dyes were used. "The roots of a genus of plants called Rubia, for example, were used to create the red colours, and ground walnut shells produced the brown tones," says Annemarie Kramell. Even back then, people mixed individual materials to create different shades. The researchers have developed a new analytical method that allows them to detect which materials were used for which colours. With the aid of modern imaging mass spectrometry, they have succeeded in depicting the dye compositions of historical textile samples as isotopic distributions. Previously, the dyes had to be removed from the textiles. However, that previous method also destroyed the pattern. This new approach enables the chemists from MLU to analyse the dyes directly from the surface of the textile samples. To do this, the piece of material under investigation is first embedded in another material. "The piece is placed in a matrix made up of a material called Technovit7100. Slices are produced from this material that are only a few micrometres thick. These are then transferred to special slides," explains Csuk. Similar methods are used, for example, in medical research to examine human tissue. The advantage is that this method can be used to study very complex samples on a micrometre scale. "This enables us to distinguish between two interwoven threads that held originally different colours," says Csuk. As part of the new study, researchers were able to detect indigo dyes in the samples. However, the method can also be applied to many other dye classes and provides insights into the process of textile production in past cultures, the two scientists conclude. The research was funded by the Federal Ministry of Education and Research as part of the project "Silk road fashion: Clothing as a means of communication in the 1st millennium BC, Eastern Central Asia." The Hans Knöll Institute in Jena and Dr Gerd Hause from MLU's Biocentre were also involved in the project.

Epic group plans India foray to revolutionise garment manufacturing industry

HONG Kong-based garment manufacturing company, Epic Group is planning to enter India and set up its first manufacturing unit in Ranchi spread across the minimum built-up area of around 20,000 sq.mt. to start with. The manufacturing unit in Ranchi is equivalent to the smallest factory of the company in Bangladesh, the biggest manufacturing hub for the Epic Group. “We will start with a target unit of about 4,000 people which is a gradual ramp-up to be achieved within the time frame of 24 months. Initially, we will start with an outlay of US$ 20 million in the form of capex,” says Ranjan Mahtani, Chairman and Owner, Epic Group. The brand is planning to source 90 percent of its raw material from India, with Mahtani saying that they are already buying huge amounts of raw material from four – five different suppliers in India.

How India Has an Edge

The brand is confident about establishing its business in India as it believes the country has an edge over other nations. “Compared to most of the countries we are in, India is more vertical as far as textiles are concerned, so that should add more speed into our business. We still need to decide on things like where fabric could be coming from – Ahmedabad or down South – and should we manufacture in India itself versus how it's being done right now – transported to these foreign countries which are quiet far away,” says Mahtani. Another reason, says Mahtani, that the company has decided to venture into India is the value addition the country has to offer first in terms of embellishment and embroidery abilities. “Aside from this, one very important reason for venturing into India is its booming economy, which has There is a lot of government support and a lot of maturity as far as financial institutions and services are concerned. This is the positive environment that we are looking forward to working in,” he adds. Also, with the way trends are changing and fashion is evolving, the brand is looking forward to working with different skill-sets and believes that India will add to these skill-sets and create a more versatile supply chain model.

HR Solutions

Epic Group believes that it is its moral and fundamental responsibility to provide workers, staff and associates with a safe working place irrespective of where they are. Mahtani says, “We provide day-care and medical facilities and we do not think that we are doing anything extra for the employees. These are part and parcel of the facilities in any part of the world. The kind of lighting and chairs that we provide, safety facilities –electrical or within the building – we have brought in a certain standard of comfort for our employees and we will continue improving on this. Our first priority is to provide a safe place to our workers to work in.” “Aside from this, the brand has a lot of incentive schemes where the worker is part of their profitability. As workers get more efficient and start learning how to work on the machines, they start getting more than their minimum cut and that is what has worked for the brand so far,” he explains. The brand usually employees more women than men. Explaining the reason behind this, Mahtani says, “We do not recruit more women as a matter of choice. We do not distinguish between male and female workers, but we have found that in a large number of countries – for instance China, Vietnam, Bangladesh or Ethiopia – women are more talented as far as tailoring is concerned. We believe in hiring the right people to do the right job.” Epic Group is also planning on changing the impression of high attrition rates in India. “We will do what we have done in other countries. Some of our factories in Bangladesh the attrition rate is 1 percent whereas other factories have 5-6 percent. Our employees feel more secure, they feel that they are the part of the company, they know what the leadership is and what is their ultimate goal. There is nothing fancy about bringing attrition down, it is all about getting the basics right,” says Mahtani.

Innovation – The Key to Success

The manufacturing facilities of the brand are designed to combine traditional skills and modern technology to serve a new era and evolving consumers. The brand is planning to replicate the same here in India. “We are going to put a lot of emphasis on innovation and automation into the factory. Over the years, we have learnt that everything is evolving. We are going to implement Japanese Lean Kaizen technology. Lean is a methodology that eliminates waste and boosts efficiency. Kaizen means continuous improvement. This course merges both philosophies. Lean Kaizen helps you get rid of waste and continuously implement best practices. Our aim is to keep up with evolving technology,” he states.

Texprocess forum to cover sustainability in textile sector

THE Texprocess Forum programme has been released and it will mainly discuss digitalisation and sustainability in the textile sector. Accordingly, Messe Frankfurt is bringing part of its Fashionsustain conference from Berlin to Frankfurt for the first time. Texprocess, the show for processing textile and flexible materials, will be held from May 14-17, 2019. Within the framework of the Texprocess Forum, Messe Frankfurt is bringing an offshoot of its Fashionsustain conference to Frankfurt on May 14, 2019. Fashionsustain is part of Neonyt, an event hub specialising in sustainable fashion during the Berliner Fashion Week. The innovative conference format adds pioneering, sustainable textile innovations to the dialogue and uses synergistic effects in the sector to revolutionise processes and production flows. The superordinate question 'Is Sustainability the Key to Textile Innovations?' will be discussed in round table sessions with key players, such as Lenzing, Perpetual Global, and Procalçado S.A. A keynote lecture by Micke Magnusson, founder of the Swedish 'We are Spindye' start-up, will address the economic need for sustainable business models and give action impulses, according to a press release on the show. Subsequently, fibre manufacturer Lenzing, embroidery-machine manufacturer Santoni, and shoe-component manufacturer Procalçado S.A. will present an innovation roadshow entitled 'The Future of Eco-Conscious Footwear Manufacturing'. The roadshow is supported by the Texpertise Network of Messe Frankfurt. It illustrates sustainable shoe manufacturing and shows how a sustainability revolution in the fashion and textile industry can become reality today. The panel discussion will be chained by Marte Hentschel, founder of Sourcebook, the B2B network for the fashion industry. Additional contributions about sustainability at Texprocess Forum will be given by Global Sustainable Management on the recycling economy and its integration in the product-development process, textile manufacturer Vossen will talk on vegan textiles, and investment company Triple Tree will discuss sustainable CSR management and audit solutions for complete transparency. Which changes triggered by Industry 4.0 are already part of the value chain, this is the main question of the thematic block organised by the VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies association, on May 14, and it will be discussed in two round-table sessions by Andreas Faath from VDMA Forum Industry 4.0; Yves-Simon Gloy from Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut, and Klaus Hecker from VDMA Organic and Printed Electronics Association. The subjects selected by DTB, Dialogue Textile Apparel, for the Texprocess Forum on May 15 and 16, 2019, spotlight those parts of the textile process chain most affected by digitalisation. With Holger Knapp, CEO of the Deutscher Fachverlag publishing company in the chair, Hans-Peter Hiemer of B4B Solutions will open proceedings with a keynote address on the digital transformation of the fashion business. This will be followed by a panel discussion entitled 'Old hands, reckless young people – how to get the best from your team with 3D!' with Michael Ernst from Germany's Niederrhein University, Andreas Seidl of Human Solutions, and other experts. Thereafter, digital solutions for the fashion trade like digital showrooms and sales tools, will be the focal point of contributions by MobiMedia and Assyst. Lectra will discuss ways to fashion on demand, Sys-Pro will look at omni-channel solutions, and Avalution will look at avatars in the digital development of apparel. In its contribution, the Hohenstein Testing Institute will consider whether virtual prototypes are also suitable for resale products while WKS Textilveredlungs will ask how quality assurance can go together with shorter lead times. In the panel discussion organised by the World Textile Information Network (WTiN) on May 17, Coloreel will introduce its revolutionary thread colouring technology; the German institute for textile and fibre research, Denkendorf, will speak about micro-factories in the textile industry; KSL will discuss sewing robots; and WTiN will look at the influence of Amazon on investment, patents, and the future.

World's first digital thread dyeing system from Twine

TWINE Solutions will be unveiling world's first digital thread dyeing system at ITMA show from June 20-26, 2019 in Barcelona, Spain. The system digitally dyes raw and off-the-shelf white thread for a variety of industry sectors: sewing, knitting and embroidery. The dyed threads can be used for endless applications in apparel, activewear, shoes, home decor, etc. Twine will be exhibiting at Hall 3, Stand C105, where visitors will be able to see the systems digitally dyeing various thread types, including Coats thread, the company said in a press release. The strategic partnership between Twine and Coats was announced last November and will include future capabilities of Twine's system, to feature inbuilt colour software, integrated with Coats ColourStitch. Coats will also be included in Twine's booth at ITMA. At the show, Twine will also showcase its digital colour matching mobile application. The SnapMatch application simply captures an image of a sample using a mobile device and Twine's proprietary algorithms analyse the colour immediately and accurately. The user then sends the captured colour to the TS-1800 system for immediate thread dyeing in the desired colour. The entire solution is the world's first digital dye-to-match process. Twine's products create a virtual inventory, with any colour and any length needed, reducing stock management, inventory and deadstock costs. Twine's sustainable digital waterless thread dyeing process saves 70 litres of clean water per 1 kg of dyed thread. The process also reduces waste and air emission. In many of the industry sectors today up to 50 per cent of dyed thread is disposed of before even being used. Twine's system dyes exactly the amount needed in a highly sustainable process. “Our Twine Digital Thread Dyeing system unleashes the power of thread, at the touch of a button. The fast-paced digital transformation of the textile industry is challenging both for production and its environmental impact. We are excited to bring solutions that will have much needed and crucial economic, social and sustainability benefits,” said Alon Moshe, Twine CEO and co-founder. Twine Solutions was founded in 2015 in Israel, with seasoned multidiscipline professionals emerging from the digital printing and textile industry. Twine is an award-winning technology start-up developing a proprietary and revolutionary digital thread dyeing system, and a digital dye to match mobile application.

Sachin GIDC textile units under lens for pollution

MANY textile mills and chemical units located in Sachin GIDC have come under the radar of Gujarat Pollution Control Board (GPCB) for releasing effluents and hazardous chemical waste in storm drains. Sources said unit owners had set up illegal pipeline networks inside Sachin GIDC, which were connected to storm drains for release of the effluents. The issue came to light when Sachin GIDC Industrial Co-op Society took up cleaning of storm drains recently. Sachin GIDC houses more than 80 textile dyeing and printing mills and about 30 chemical units. Though there is a common effluent treatment plant (CETP) inside the GIDC, some mills owners resort to releasing effluents in storm drains. "We have received complaints about release of effluents in storm drains at Sachin GIDC. We will carry out surprise checks and take action against those violating law," a GPCB officer said. Sachin GIDC Industrial Cooperative Society member Mayur Golwala said, "We had written many letters to Sachin Notified Area Authority and GPCB, but no action has been taken. Recently, we laid our hands on the illegal network set up by the unit owners. This is a serious issue and needs to be addressed by pollution control authorities at the earliest." Golwala added, "Some of the office-bearers of Sachin GIDC Cooperative Society are hand-in-gloves with the mill owners for financial gains. We have decided to write to the state government to build pressure on the GPCB." A senior officer of Sachin Notified Area Authority said, "We are in the know of illegal practice going on in the GIDC, but the mill owners have a strong lobby. We have taken up cleaning of the storm drains and if any illegal network is found, we will report it to the GPCB authorities for action." Meanwhile, a few chemical unit owners in Sachin GIDC held a meeting on Saturday to discuss illegal release of effluents in storm drains. The mills owners were of the opinion that the GPCB should take stern action against law breakers.

Archroma at China Interdye with innovations and solution systems for enhanced sustainability, color and performance

ARCHROMA, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, presented its system solutions for optimized productivity and/or value creation in textile coloring and manufacturing at the recently concluded China Interdye. At China Interdye, visitors experienced how Archroma can help them create value in their textile applications and markets. Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fiber to finish. The systems and innovations presented by Archroma have been developed and selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it's our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma's deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable .

Automotive & transportation

With the completion in 2018 of the acquisition of M. Dohmen, Archroma now offers a reinforced portfolio of dyes and chemicals ideally suited for synthetic fibers and wool, including for the automotive sector. Archroma has also decided to establish its new Global Competence Center for Automotive and Synthetic Dyes in the M. Dohmen site in Germany, where its expert team of automotive solutions specialists will provide innovation and technical application support to automotive customers globally. Archroma also presented a system solutions ideally suited to textile manufacturers serving the automotive & transportation market, such as the recent:Light Fast Car, a system designed to keep fabric colors deep, vibrant and matched day after day; based Fadex AS New, a new “super UV protector”. Archroma's experts also gave New package solutions especially developed for synthetic microfiber suede material, combining Dorospers K & A dyes for high light fastness, Pekoflam for flame retardancy and Nuva N for the repellence and release of oil, soil and water.

Outdoor & Active wear

Archroma helps the outdoor & active wear sector to bring ideas to life with exciting color effects, with technology to make gear more resistant to extreme weather conditions from heatwaves to rain pours, with thermo-control and protection solutions, as well as with finishes for softness and comfort. Archroma has developed new system solutions designed to add value in outdoor & active wear applications:

  • Color Vibe, a system for nylon sportswear to maintain color vibrancy, time after time, wash after wash; based on super-fast metal-free* Nylosan S high concentration range of acid dyes;
  • Odor Active, a dual odor active system that fights the natural body odor and stops odor-prone bacteria from sticking to the fabric, stopping the infamous permastink to impregnate our favorite sportswear; based on Sanitized Odoractiv 10.

Denim & casual wear

  • Archroma is reputed for its continuous flow of ground-breaking innovations providing a unique portfolio of solutions to denim manufacturers, such as: The EarthColors, a range of dyes made from non-edible natural waste from the agricultural and herbal industry, or more recently the “purest indigo”: Denisol Pure Indigo, an aniline-free* synthetic pre-reduced liquid indigo launched in 2018.
  • In addition, several new systems developed by Archroma can be used in denim and casual wear: Denim Vibe, a sulfur-based system to efficiently create bright ocean blue denim; based on pre-reduced bright blue sulfur Diresul Ocean Blue dyes;
  • Indigo Flow, an aniline-free* indigo system that produces authentic denim without compromising our planet, based on the above mentioned new DenisolPure Indigo;
  • Indigo Reflection, a coloration system that behaves like indigo, but with a more sustainable and efficient process; based on our new Diresul Smartdenim Blue sulfur blue specialty;
  • Stay Dark, a complete system for long- lasting, dark navy jeans; with Diresul RDT exclusive sulfur technology;

Fashion

Archroma helps its customers to get ahead at every level of the textile processing chain, with a focus on adding value, accelerating time to market and increasing sustainability. Archroma offers to textile manufacturers and brand owners the tailor-made system solutions that they need to bring innovation and inspiration to their creations:

  • Deep Dive, a complete system for highly efficient coloration with less water; based on Drimaren Ultimate HD reactive dyes for high build-up;
  • White Water, a system for t-shirts that stay white and bright for longer, without wasting a single precious drop; based on biodegradable, eco-certified, all-in-one Blue Magic pretreatment.
  • For babywear, Stamp It Safe, a formaldehyde-free* printing system for soft fabrics, which is better for you and our planet; based on Helizarin SFT, a binder designed for high fastness;
  • For children, Power Cotton, a system for comfortable cotton fabrics with more than 5 times higher abrasion resistance;

Color inspiration & management

Visitors at the booth also experienced 'Color Atlas by Archroma', a unique tool dedicated to providing fashion designers and stylists with off-the-shelf color inspiration that can be implemented in production with just a few clicks. The Color Atlas contains 4,320 colors on cotton poplin, and online at https://coloratlas.archroma.com, almost double compared to similar tools available to textile and fashion specialists. “With our expert system solutions for color and performance, we touch and color people's lives every day everywhere in markets like automotive or sportswear,” explains Robert Liu, Head of Sales for China at Archroma. “This is why Archroma is committed to continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable. We create color and chemical technologies that help textile manufacturers offer textiles and garments that are more innovative and sustainable to win on their own markets.”

  • Below limits of detection

Global Denim market churns in 2019

THE landscape for denim apparel sourcing continued to evolve as the new year got started, with significant surges and downturns in production among major U.S. suppliers. The first month of the year could be seen as surprising, with an 11.52 percent increase in category imports–the vast majority of which are jeans–from Mexico to reach a value of $61.23 million worth of goods. The uptick came as the concern of importers that Mexican-made goods could lose their duty-free status as the country renegotiated the North American Free Trade Agreement with the U.S. and Canada. A new trilateral deal, the U.S-Mexico-Canada Agreement, was signed and now awaits ratification. Vietnam continued its momentum as a growing denim supplier, with its shipments increasing 23.13 percent in the month to $25.98 million. While Mexican and other Western Hemisphere sourcing come with built-in duty-free treatment and closer to home logistics advantages, Vietnam's gains are generally seen by sourcing experts as taking a bite out of China's pie. Denim apparel imports from China fell 1.9 percent in January to a value of $85.24 million, which was counter to a gain in overall apparel imports in the month and could indicate that the more specialized manufacturing needed to make jeans compared to more basic apparel, has companies taking a longer view of the risks of committing to China sourcing as trade tensions and cost increases hover above the country. As companies readied for the spring retail season, denim apparel imports from the world rose 3.12 percent in January compared to a year earlier. “Countries like Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia and Mexico have been winning the trade war. Companies have started to looks at issues like where can I go [outside of China], and what will it do to my costs,” Laura Rabinowitz, special counsel at international trade law firm Kelley Drye, said. Other major Asian suppliers also had a down month. Jeans imports from Bangladesh fell 7.97 percent to $35.87 million, Pakistan's shipments were down 20.3 percent to $21.07 million and U.S. imports from Cambodia decreased 13.46 percent to $8.41 million. On a smaller scale in the region, denim apparel imports from Indonesia rose 35.72 percent to $6.3 million, Sri Lanka's shipments were up 8.15 percent to 5.1 million and imports from India gained 65.28 percent to $4.09 million. Gail W. Strickler, president of global trade at Brookfield Associates, said, Indonesia is likely benefitting from China's stagnancy and “Sri Lanka is getting back in the game and they have a high-end needle.” Denim apparel imports from the Western Hemisphere increased 9.78 percent in January to $75.76 million. In addition to Mexico, Nicaragua led the way with a 17.1 percent gain to $6.31 million, and Guatemala nearly doubled its shipments from a year earlier, to $2.65 million. Gainers in the month also included Egypt, with jeans imports rising 16.11 percent to $12.8 million, and Jordan, which supplied $5.83 million worth of gods, more than doubling its shipments on a year-to-year basis.

OEKO-TEX Test Criteria 2019 – New regulations finally entered into force on 1 April

CONSUMER protection and sustainability along the textile value chain have always been fundamental issues for the OEKO-TEX Association. For this reason, the existing guidelines of the OEKO-TEX product portfolio are updated at the beginning of each year, so that the latest scientific findings and industry trends are adapted. After the transitional period, the new OEKO-TEX regulations for all certification systems and services finally entered into force on April 1, 2019. An overview of the new regulations can be found here. The latest changes relate to the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX standard.

Eco passport by oeko-tex

The basis for sustainable production of textiles and leather goods is the use of environmentally friendly chemicals. The ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX certification is expressly aimed at the avoidance of unwanted chemicals, even before they enter the global supply chain. For this, numerous chemicals, including dyes, boiling agents, adhesives, inks, pigments and accessories, are analysed in a confidential, three-stage process, which confirms that the formulation and individual ingredients fulfil specific criteria with respect to sustainability, security and compliance with legal provisions. An overview of the changes:

Inclusion of leather chemicals

Following the introduction of the LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX for leather products that have been tested for harmful substances, as well as the Sustainable Textile & Leather Production certification (STeP) for environmentally friendly and sustainable leather products, in addition to textile chemicals, leather chemicals will shortly also be able to be tested and certified according to the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX standard.

New substances in the limit value catalogues

Various substances have been newly added to the limit value catalogues. In addition to quinoline, which was already subject to monitoring by OEKO-TEX, these include the softener and viscosity regulator TCEP (Tris(2-chlorethyl) phosphate), the propellant ADCA (diazene-1,2-dicarboxamide) and the siloxanes D4, D5 and D6. Newly included in Annex 6, are the arylamines 4-chloro-o-toluidinium chloride, CAS No. 3165-93-3, 2-naphthylammoniumacetate, CAS No. 553-00-4, 2,4-diaminoanisole sulphate, CAS No. 39156-41-7, 2,4,5-trimethylaniline hydrochloride, CAS No. 21436-97-5 and the flame retardant, disodium octaborate, CAS No. 12008- 41-2.

New additions to the limit value catalogues

In Annex 4 of the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX limit values were also tightened up for various parameters. This particularly relates to the starting point for the production of dyes, aniline, the solvent, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP), N,N-dimethylacetamide (DMAC), N,N-dimethylformamide (DMF), the flame retardants, penta-, hexa- and heptabromodiphenyl ether, various fire retardants and per- and polyfluorinated compounds (PFCs). There were also changes in the limit value catalogue for the substances, OPP, CMK, TCMTB, for leather chemicals. Additional important changes in the OEKO-TEX product portfolio:

OEKO-TEX already complies with the new “REACH Annex XVII CMR Legislation”

Through the limit value requirements of benzene, amine salts, as well as quinoline in STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX and LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX, these now already cover the requirements of the new “REACH Annex XVII CMR Legislation” (Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/1513).

Glyphosate under observation

From 2019, two new product groups will be monitored in STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX and LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX: glyphosate and its salts, as well as the carcinogenic N-nitrosamines and N-nitrosatable substances. A free webinar on the new regulations for 2019 for all OEKO-TEX products is available at www.oeko-tex.com/webinars.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) obtains a court decision against a textile printer&&

THE Higher Regional Court Stuttgart, Germany passed a consumer-friendly judgement on 18 February 2019 - with far-reaching consequences for any advertising using the GOTS logo and/or name. The appeal decision was passed on a case where a textile printer had purchased blank GOTS certified T-shirts and then printed on them. However, the printer was not GOTS certified. According to the GOTS standard criteria, each processing step must be certified in order to exclude toxic or carcinogenic substances, among other criteria. The printed T-shirt was advertised as a GOTS certified end-product, so the Global Standard non-profit GmbH, the standard setter of GOTS, took legal action. The judges explicitly pointed out that the GOTS Trademark is regarded as a Quality Mark. Consumers must be able to rely on compliance with the strict requirements of the standard. Printing on a textile would bear the risk that this product would no longer comply with the requirements of GOTS. The reputation of GOTS could thus be weakened or otherwise damaged by further (non-certified) processing which would constitute an infringing activity. General explanations about GOTS on the defendant's website did not change this, since the consumer would be given the wrong impression that the products were certified, the judges ruled. "This judgement is groundbreaking. The judges acknowledge the quality promise of a GOTS product to be certified throughout the entire supply chain. This protects the consumers and the companies that act correctly by getting certified" says Claudia Kersten, GOTS Managing Director.

Huntsman's Kandla warehouse wins highest exporter award

HUNTSMAN Textile Effects, the leading global provider of high quality dyes, chemicals and digital inks, today announced that its Kandla warehousing facility in Gujarat was recognized as the highest exporter by Kandla Special Economic Zone (KASEZ) authorities for 2017-18. Huntsman's Kandla facility received the award for the export of dyes, chemicals and digital inks. The specialty chemical leader was awarded by KASEZ under the service and trading category for timely execution of exports, error-free documentation and on-time post-shipment formalities. Commenting on the feat, Mr. Koshal Bisen, Regional Supply Chain Manager (SAMEA), Huntsman Textile Effects, said, “It is an honor to be recognized for our performance in exports from the Kandla Special Economic Zone (KASEZ) for the fifth time. This award is a reaffirmation of our commitment towards achieving superior operational excellence and enhancing year-on-year efficiency. We are also grateful to the team who aspire to better their efforts each year.” Huntsman's Kndla warehouse has previously been recognized by KASEZ authorities in 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014. The facility is a consolidation hub and has an export capacity of 400 metric tonnes per month. The award was presented to Huntsman at the 55th foundation day of the Kandla SEZ. The top 10 units of KASEZ are awarded in various categories such as manufacturing, trading, job works and export services among others.

Top Brands to Exhibit Sustainable Solutions at Denim Show 2019

ONE of India's most sought-after trade exhibitions, the Denim Show, is set to return with its second edition in the national capital. To be held from August 10-12, 2019 at Pragati Maidan, the show will witness some of the prominent denim manufacturing companies exhibiting their products and putting forth the breakthroughs in this segment. Denim Show acts as a unique platform for the suppliers, manufacturers, distributors, retailers, designers and other stakeholders in the denim and allied industries. The organisers have received incredible response from the exhibitors, and already some leading brands such as Ginni, Oswal, Jindal Textiles, Raymond UCO, Arvind, Reliance, Mafatlal, etc. have committed to participating in the event. Owing to the effective exposure brands receive at the Show, several of those who had exhibited in 2018 have returned again this year to showcase their solutions at the event. This year, the show will be all the more special as apart from promoting new denim manufacturing solutions, it will also emphasise on the concept of circularity in denim industry under the theme Denim 4.0. There will be focus on eco-friendly technology and processes, and allow various stakeholders to give their valued insights for the benefit for the entire industry. The exhibitors will get the opportunity to present their latest innovations to the target clientele, which will help them in generating leads and closures within a short time. The presence of who's who of the industry ensures that the event attracts the right kind of audience. Besides catering to the needs of exhibitors, it also offers an excellent opportunity for visitors to take a glance at the changes happening in the methods of denim manufacturing and understand how to overcome the challenges faced by the industry as a whole. It has, thus, become a one-stop shop where the entire denim fraternity can assemble to promote, witness and study the latest innovations in engineering. The Denim Show is held as a parallel event along with Gartex Texprocess, and is organised in collaboration with Denim Manufacturers Association (DMA). There will be four key show highlights, namely, Denim Applications, Denim Talks, Denim Trends and Denim Walks. Denim Applications is dedicated to highlighting the rapidly increasing range of the applications of Denim fabrics and textiles, while under Denim Talks, a conference is held to enable the denim fraternity to clear their doubts on manufacturing, technology, applications or trends in the industry. Denim Trends is designed to highlight recent trends, besides showcasing latest technologies and advancements in denim, while the fourth section Denim Walks is aimed at highlighting a collection of latest designs and fashion trends in the denim clothing. There would be multiple rounds of ramp walks wherein male & female models would showcase the designs and styles of denim garments.

Dow completes separation from DowDuPont

DOW has successfully completed its separation from DowDuPont, becoming a more focused, streamlined, and leading materials science company. Dow launches with global scale and leading positions in three attractive consumer-driven segments: packaging, infrastructure and consumer care. Dow is now even better positioned to drive revenue growth and innovate for its customers, leveraging three advantaged building blocks – ethylene, propylene and silicones – to power one of the deepest chemistry sets in the industry. The distribution of Dow common stock was completed recently, with each DowDuPont stockholder of record receiving one (1) share of Dow common stock for every three (3) shares of DowDuPont common stock held as of the close of business on March 21, 2019. DowDuPont stockholders will also receive cash in lieu of any fractional Dow shares. Dow common stock will begin trading on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE) under its historical symbol “DOW” on April 2, 2019, and will join the Dow Jones Industrial Average (DJIA) index. “Today marks the beginning of a new and exciting chapter for Dow,” said Jim Fitterling, chief executive officer. “The changes we have made to Dow's portfolio, cost structure and mindset are significant. The new Dow is a more focused and streamlined company with a clear playbook to deliver long-term earnings growth and value creation for all stakeholders. Team Dow is well positioned to achieve our ambition of becoming the most innovative, customer-centric, inclusive and sustainable materials science company. We have all the tools in place to innovate more quickly, to operate more productively, and to invest more prudently to deliver value creating growth, higher returns and enhanced shareholder value.” “Today we celebrate this milestone with our customers, communities, investors, and Team Dow,” said Howard Ungerleider, president and chief financial officer. “With our focused portfolio, streamlined cost structure, disciplined approach to capital allocation, and shareholder friendly capital return framework, the new Dow has the right capabilities and team to drive best-in-class operating and financial performance.” The new Company will be referred to by the brand name “Dow,” acknowledging the remarkable legacy while also reflecting the company-wide evolution to a materials science solutions provider. Dow is adopting a new brandline – “Seek Together” – which is a call to action that highlights the value of collaboration to deliver innovation and solutions to our customers and value chains. It represents the way Dow seeks to collaborate with all of its stakeholders as it delivers on its ambition. The iconic Dow Diamond, which has stood as the Company's logo for more than 120 years, is unchanged and will continue to be a core element of the Dow brand.

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